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Silvassa>>Bordi>>Jawhar

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Ramzan Eid which fell on a Saturday activated the travel mood of my family plus the on setting monsoon inspired us to take the benefit of planning a monsoon picnic. We took our time to discuss and finally shortlisted the union territory of Dadra & Nagar Haveli. We have been to Daman few times but somehow we hadn’t ventured into Dadra & Nagar Haveli till now. Instead of booking the hotel online, we decided to take our chance by going directly to the short-listed resorts.

We left home at around 7 am. The weather was very pleasant with occasional showers. Though the monsoon was not in its full form, still we could see fifty shades of green everywhere.

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Fifty Shades of Green

After taking a pit stop for breakfast near Dapchari on Mumbai Ahmedabad highway, we left highway in Talasari for Khanvel. We could see locals working in paddy fields. Once we entered into D & N Haveli, the quality of roads improved. Let me introduce first about Dadra & Nagar Haveli.

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Madhuban Dam

Dadra Nagar Haveli (D. N. H.) is a union territory of India landlocked between Maharashtra & Gujarat. Silvassa town is the shared capital of Dadra & Nagar Haveli. D. N. H. was a Portuguese colony till 1954 & it was merged in India in 1961. The territory outside the Silvassa town is mainly inhabited by tribal communities like Warli, Kokana, Koli etc. The Warli community is famous for their traditional art called as Warli paintings.

Warli painting

Warli Painting

Apart from Silvassa which is an industrial & cosmopolitan city, fifty percent of the region is under forest. The topography is marked by Damanganga River & its tributaries with hilly terrain of Western Ghats. This makes the territory immense in natural beauty with exotic flora & fauna.

Prakruti Parichay Kendra, Khanvel (Silvassa)

Prakruti Parichay Kendra, Khanvel (Silvassa)

Our first stop in D. N. H. was Khanvel. Khanvel is known for Van Vihar Complex & Prakruti Parichay Kendra. Prakruti Parichay Kendra is dedicated to the flora & fauna of the Dadra & Nagar Haveli. Kids were very happy to visit this place as they could grasp the information on various animals, birds & trees. It’s beautifully set amidst a garden on the banks of a river. We got all the information about the geographical location, forests, people, culture, flora & fauna of DNH here. There were many life sized models of animals which earned brownie points with kids. There was one panel where we could hear the calls of different birds and it was truly exciting for kids.  The garden itself is very beautiful with Warli paintings displayed on the walls of the exhibition centre in the garden. We climbed up the watch tower with kids to get a bird’s eye view of the nature’s untainted beauty. The Van Vihar Complex was also an added attraction with a deer park, cactus garden & butterfly garden.

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Kids loved the Khanvel Prakruti Kendra

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Prakruti Parichay Kendra, Khanvel (Silvassa)

After Khanvel we moved towards the main attraction of Dudhni Reservoir situated at 20 km from Khanvel. The road from Khanvel to Dudhni was very scenic with lots of greenery around. We saw the glimpses of tribal life, their huts.

Glimpses of Tribal Life

Glimpses of Tribal Life

 The terrain was hilly with scenic vistas of valleys, meadows, backwaters of dam, palm trees. I couldn’t resist stopping our car & clicked few pictures from view points. We turned off the car AC & rolled down the windows to get the fresh unpolluted air. It was like getting drunk on fresh air.

Vistas on way to Dudhni

Vistas on way to Dudhni

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Green Meadows with palm  trees

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Backwaters of Dam

This journey ended near Dudhni Jetty. Dudhni is a very beautiful water reservoir in more beautiful settings of Western Ghat ranges. There were many water sports options available. We hired two shikara type boats for Rs 250 each for a 30 minutes trip. It had a manual rowing and our local boatmen were doing it effortlessly. The nature was at its best. The wind was gusting with full force. We could see green hill ranges of Western Ghats around. Locals were grazing their cattle on the shores. Kids started revising their lessons of domestic animals.

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Dudhni Jetty

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Dudhni Lake

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Shikara type boat

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Kids Loving The Shikara Ride 

When we came back to the jetty it was 1.30 pm & all of us were very hungry. So we decided to reach Silvassa for lunch. On our way to Silvassa we enquired for Vasona Lion Safari & Deer Park. To our bad luck, both these places were closed due to rains. Kids were upset as I had promised them earlier to show lions & deers. However, I assured them that there is another surprise waiting for them. Hearing this, kids were back in their travel mood and were ready to tame their rumbling and growling tummies. We had a delicious vegetarian lunch at Kutty’s at Silvassa. After lunch we decided to have a quick visit to Madhuban dam (5 km). It is one of the scenic dam sites I have ever seen.

My boy at the Madhuban Dam

My boy at the Madhuban Dam

When we came back to Silvassa there were huge traffic jams on the streets due to Rath Yatras of Jagannath Temples in the city. As most of the sightseeing was done so there was no point in night stay in Silvassa. As usual google map came handy in that situation. We zeroed on beach town of Bordi (42 km) in Maharashtra. We crossed NH8 at Bhilad & moved towards Bordi via Sanjan.

My gal at the Bordi Beach

My gal at the Bordi Beach

            When we hit Bordi there was still ample sunlight so I dropped kids & family on Bordi beach. Kids were happy that I fulfilled my promise of another surprise. While they were enjoying the beach I set out in search of the stay options. After few enquiries I reached Tapovan Retreat at Bordi. It was love at first sight. It’s a century old Heritage Parsee Bungalow called Maneck Villa converted into a hotel. This place was full of surprises.

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Heritage Parsee Bungalow called Maneck Villa

Our big family room had a spacious veranda with a traditional swing, a carom board & many antique furniture items.  After relaxing for a while in the room & premises we had a sumptuous dinner of sea food at Crazy Crabs in Bordi. We drifted off to sleep while discussing the next day’s plan.

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Spacious Veranda

            The next morning we hit again to the Bordi Beach which is just across the road from Maneck Villa. We spent some tranquil moments on the beach. Kids built sand castles & gathered seashells as souvenirs.

image After returning to Maneck Villa we freshened up & had breakfast of Pohas. We decided to return home via Dahanu( 20 km) & Jawhar (80 km). Both these places are very nostalgic to my family as my late maternal grandpa was posted to these towns during his forest service & my mum’s schooling was mostly here too. The approximately 20 km road between Bordi & Dahanu runs parallel to the beach with Chickoo Orchards & old Parsi bungalows on the other side.

            After Dahanu we crossed the NH8 again at Charoti & went straight to Jawhar. The journey of 1.5 hrs was again through the hills & green paddy fields of newly formed Palghar district of Maharashtra. We reached Jawhar at around 12.15 pm. Jawhar is a lesser known hill station in Maharashtra, ideal for a weekend trip from Mumbai.

 Dabhosa Waterfall, Jawhar

Dabhosa Waterfall near Jawhar

My memories with Jawhar are from the age of five. My maternal grandfather worked here for many years with the State Forest Dept. The Warli tribe resides here & in the surrounding area. The Jai Vilas Palace is the main attraction of Jawhar, attracting many tourists each year.

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The Jai Vilas Palace

The palace situated on a hillock among extensive cashew plantation was once the home of the tribal royals known as Mukne. It’s also a favourite location for Hindi films shooting. The central or Darbar hall of the palace consists of many portraits of the Mukne’s family. One can also see the tribal antique furniture & stuffed Indian Tigers.

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Back view of Jaivilas Palace, Jawhar

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 We walked through the cashew plantation towards the palace. The palace is losing its charm due to poor maintenance but one can still imagine the bygone glory of this palace. We watched the extensive vistas of the valleys from the backside of the palace.

Then we had a lunch of Chicken Dum Handi & Nagli rotis (Finger millet) at Shivneri Dhaba. After lunch we continued to explore the viewpoints around Jawhar like Hanuman Point and Sunset Point.

Chicken Dum Handi & Nagli rotis (Finger millet)

Chicken Dum Handi & Nagli rotis (Finger millet)

Hanuman Point and Sunset Point

View of the Palace from Hanuman Point

Vistas from Hanuman Point, Jawhar

Vistas from Hanuman Point, Jawhar

Thus we completed our own customised mini triangle itinerary of these off the beaten track places around Mumbai. We explored UT of Dadra Nagar Haveli, stayed in a heritage Parsee bungalow near Bordi beach, rekindled family memories in the lesser known hill station of Jawhar. Such weekend family trips make you forget the stress of urban life & relax for a while.

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 By

The Desi Vagabond



Palakottai Poriyal (Jackfruit Seed stir-fry – Tamil Style)

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Tamilnadu is the southernmost state of India. With many pristine beaches, beautiful hill stations & legendary temples it is one of my most favorite states. The Western Ghats run along the western border of the state. Oooty, Kodaikanal, Coonoor, Yarcaud are some of the most popular hill stations of Tamilnadu. Chennai, Mahabalipuram, Rameswaram, Madurai, Kanyakumari are few other highlights of the Tamilnadu tourism. Tamil culture is known for its festivals and rituals. People are very friendly and respect others. Tamil cuisine is also very rich with many dishes prepared in century old traditional style. Chettinad region is very famous for its distinct non vegetarian dishes. Jackfruit is the state fruit of Tamilnadu. Here is the recipe of  my favorite Jackfruit seed , Tamil style Palakottai Poriyal.

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Ingredients

  • 20 Jackfruit seeds chopped and de-skinned

  • ½ tsp mustard seeds

  • 2 green chilies chopped

  • 2 tsp garlic & ginger

  • ¼ tsp asafoetida (optional)

  • 2 tsp grated coconut (optional)

  • 1 ½ tsp red chili powder

  • 1 tsp coriander powder

  • 1 tsp garam masala/sambar powder

  • ½ tsp turmeric powder

  • 6 curry leaves

  • 2 big onions chopped

  • Chopped coriander leaves for garnishing

  • Salt as per taste

  • Water as per requirement

  • 2 tbsp oil

Preparation:

  1. Cut each seed into 4 pieces. Peel off the film-like skin. It’s a tedious work but the skin must be removed otherwise it gives away bitter taste and you might not like it.

  2. Use a pressure cooker to cook the chopped seeds by adding a pinch of salt and water. The water level should not exceed the seeds. Wait for 4 to 5 whistles. Drain the water in a colander. The drained water can be used later.

  3. In a pan or wok, heat the oil. Add mustard seeds and let it splutter. Next, add curry leaves, chopped onion and asafoetida.

  4. Add sambar powder or garam masala, ginger-garlic paste, chili powder, coriander powder and stir well. Immediately add cooked palakottai, turmeric powder, grated coconut, water (earlier drained water), salt and mix well.

  5. Simmer in a low flame for 10-15 minutes.

  6. Keep tossing till the gravy is completely fused. Once cooked, turn off the heat.

  7. Before serving garnish it with the chopped coriander leaves.

  8. Palakottai Poriyal is ready.

  9. Serve it hot with rice. It will also go well as a side dish with sambar, rasam and curd rice too.


Tips for healthy living.

The jackfruit seed is believed to be a little gaseous that is why we add asafoetida. Asafoetida is widely used in south Indian cooking and it is known to treat digestion problems including intestinal gas, troubled stomach and irritable colon. 


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Flying on Top of the World: Everest Mountain Flight

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Nepal was recently in news for one of the worst earthquakes in the history. Thousands of people died in this natural calamity. This earthquake paralysed the beautiful Himalayan nation & it was a major setback for the tourism industry of this landlocked country. Many heritage structures of Kathmandu valley were completely destroyed in this disaster. Though the epicentre of the quake was approximately 225 km away from Mount Everest, the tremors & aftershocks caused a series of disastrous avalanches on & around the highest peak of the world. There were hundreds of mountain climbers from across the world, many Sherpas in this region at the time of the earthquake. This created havoc at Mt. Everest & its base camp. Many of the climbers got killed & many were reported missing. Nepal is recovering from the aftermath of this earthquake with financial & medical help from across the world. Nepali people are known for their kind, peaceful & innocent nature. These simple people are fighting back to recover from this devastation. I was in Nepal in May 2014, almost a year before the earthquake. I visited this Himalayan nation of immense natural beauty, snow-capped mountains, wild life & many rivers. Everest Mountain Flight was one of the highlights of my Nepal trip. So I am writing this post about this memorable experience as a tribute to this beautiful country & simple Nepalese people.
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1. Kathmandu in the early morning hours

Kathmandu in the early morning hours

Everest mountain flight was part of my travel bucket list since my childhood. During my Nepal trip of May 2014 I got a chance to tick it off. We had kept the second morning of our Nepal itinerary for this flight. We booked the trip with Buddha Air.
 Aish with her boarding pass
Aish with her boarding pass
It was a The Beech 1900D- 18 seater aircraft. It’s a 50 minutes flight with every passenger having a window seat. This flight offers panoramic views of Himalayan peaks & glaciers.
9. Inside our dreamlinerInside our dreamliner 
Aish & Hemant
Aish & Hemant
We left our hotel early at 4.30 am for domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport. The weather was not good with occasional rains.
3. Inside the terminal
Inside the terminal
The humble terminal was full of passengers travelling to Pokhara, Nepalgunj, Biratnagar etc. This small terminal reminded me of small suburban railway stations of Mumbai. We could hear the announcement that the airport was closed & all the flights were delayed due to bad weather.
Many flights were delayed due to bad weather
Many flights were delayed due to bad weather
I was a bit stressful as a similar flight named Buddha Air flight 103 had crashed on 25th September 2011 killing all 19 passengers & crew on board. The culprit was unpredictable bad weather of high Himalayas. It reminded me the quote of a pilot from a Nepal guidebook- “We don’t fly through the clouds because in Nepal the clouds have rocks in them.
The departure terminal
The departure terminal
6. Eagerly waiting for boarding

Eagerly waiting for boarding

The Beech 1900D- 18 seater aircraft
The Beech 1900D- 18 seater aircraft
After almost an hour’s wait we boarded our little dream liner- Buddha Air flight 102. As the flight took off, we could see the Kathmandu Valley below with green fields & hills around.
12. Kathmandu Valley

Kathmandu Valley

Kathmandu City
Kathmandu City
Kathmandu City from sky
Kathmandu City from sky
In few minutes we were in clouds & nothing was visible. The pilot’s quote was still lingering in my mind. Then the picture become clearer & we could see Himalayan snow capped mountain ranges in clouds. The airline had provided a map of these ranges with their names & altitude.
nformation brochure of the flight with map
Information brochure of the flight with map
The pilot & air-hostess were making announcements regarding these ranges. We could see the mighty Himalayas with peaks like Lhotse, Makalu, Chamlang etc. till the horizon. Then came the moment for which everyone was waiting eagerly. The mother of all mountains- Mount Everest was in our range. Everybody was taking as many photos as possible. I tried to save the picture in my eyes.
First view of the snow capped mountains
First view of the snow capped mountains
The mighty Himalayas (1)
The mighty Himalayas 
The mighty Himalayas
The mighty Himalayas
The mighty Himalayas
The mighty Himalayas
This was really a ‘Life Mein Ek Bar” experience. It was a close encounter with Himalayas especially Mt. Everest. Nothing compares to the beauty of Mt. Everest- the mother of all mountains. It was so close that we almost touched it (20 miles).The date with Mt. Everest was more significant to us because on the same day (25th May 2014) Malavath Poorna, 13 year old daughter of poor Indian farmer became the youngest girl to climb Mt. Everest. We were there almost at the same time. Each one of us was taken into cockpit one by one. It was also a first for me. I even took few pictures of the console & the 360 degrees view of the mountains from the cockpit was one of the best sights.
 Inside the cockpit
Inside the cockpit
View
View from the cockpit
View from the cockpit
View from the cockpit
View from the cockpit
View from the cockpit
View from the cockpit
View from the cockpit
The mother of all mountains

The mother of all mountains

After landing we also received certificates from Buddha Air as memento of our flight. We took few group photos with our aircraft in the background. It was an experience of which you can tell the stories to your kids & grandkids. Someone has rightly said that, “One should spend money on experiences, not things.”
Withe airport ground staff
Life Mein Ek Bar (Once in a lifetime experiences) 
Click to view slideshow.

Throwback August

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August 2014 was one of the best travel months of my life.  I truly lived up to my name of ‘Desi Vagabond’. I completed a kind of mini RTW trip across 3 countries in just 19 days. I had many wonderful travel moments. I took a road trip on The Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland, rode a 2 wheeler in chaotic Bangkok traffic, landed in a Thai police station for some reasons, finished off many dishes of Pakistani food in Dubai. I saw many breathtaking landscapes, tried exotic local food n drinks, made new friends, enjoyed the company of friends & family. This journey was fun. I have created a video for this fascinating Throwback August 2014. Come, enjoy this journey with me.


Cabbage Thoran Kerala Style

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I am just back from my trip of Wayanad, Northern Kerala. Wayanad is still a kind of virgin destination as compared to the other popular destinations in Kerala. During our stay in Wayanad we trekked to the pre- historic Edakkal Caves, explored many waterfalls like Soochipara waterfalls, Kanthanpara waterfalls. We enjoyed the speed boating in Banasura Sagar Dam with almost alpine vistas around. We also consumed numerous cups of Wayanad Coffee looking at the Coffee & tea estates of our Planet Green Resort with the majestic Chembra Peak in the background.

​We were well fed by the staff of Planet Green Resort with tasty vegetarian & non vegetarian delicacies. Cabbage Thoran aka Kerala style Cabbage Stir Fry dish is an essential part of traditional Kerala meal known as Kerala Sadya. The 10 days of Onam Harvest Celebrations are already started in Kerala. So I decided to cook this Cabbage Thoran in a clay pot with the help of a traditional Kerala style handmade cooking spoon. I learnt this recipe during my last year’s Alleppey houseboat stay. Our cook cum navigator was very enthusiastic while teaching me this Cabbage Thoran recipe. So here are the details of Cabbage Thoran Kerala style.

Ingredients

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1. One & half cabbage (finely chopped).

2. 10-12 shallots or 3 medium sized onions (finely chopped).

3. Curry leaves 10-12.

4. 4 large green chillies finely slit.

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5. One & half teaspoon turmeric powder.

6. 1 teaspoon cumin seeds.

7. 1 teaspoon mustard seeds.

8. Finely chopped coriander leaves for garnishing.

9. 1 cup finely grated fresh coconut.

10. 3-4 tablespoon of coconut oil.

11. Salt & asafoetida as per requirement.

Preparation

  1. Finely chop or shred the cabbage. Keep it in water with a pinch of salt for few minutes. Drain the water & keep the cabbage aside.

  2. Heat the coconut oil in a pan. I used a clay pot & handmade coconut cooking spoon for this.

  3. Add a pinch of asafoetida.

  4. Then add 1 teaspoon of mustard seeds. Let it splutter.

  5. Add 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds.

  6. Add finely chopped shallots or onions to this. Keep sautéing till it becomes little brownish.

  7. Now add the finely slit green chillies & let it splutter.

  8. Add the curry leaves & sauté it for few seconds.

Sauteing the onions, curry leaves, chilies with turmeric powder

Sauteing the onions, curry leaves, chilies with turmeric powder

9. Add the cabbage & keep stirring continuously till the extra water evaporates.
10. As the water evaporates, add salt as per taste.

Sauteing the cabbage.

Sauteing the cabbage.

11. Cover the pan or clay pot by a dish with water in it. You can open this cover occasionally to stir it.
12. Once the cabbage gets cooked, add the finely grated fresh coconut. Cook further for 5 minutes.
13. Garnish the thoran with finely chopped coriander leaves.

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Cabbage Thoran Kerala Style

Your Cabbage Thoran is ready. It can be served with a Malabar Parotha or Sambar Rice.



The Liebster Award

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award

This is so cool!  , thank you very much for nominating me. I’m actually feeling pretty confident and hyped. So, here’s my answers to  ‘s questions…

1)What do you do for fun?
Travel, cook or plan to travel.
2)What happened on the happiest day that you can remember?
My daughter was born on my birthday. 
3)What is your favorite meal?
Cooked by loved ones.
4)What do you hope to accomplish with your blog?
I’m committed to inspiring readers to travel to re-evaluate the way they look at the world. I want  my writing to motivate people to travel and to enjoy food and be united as a citizen of the planet earth.
5)What is your preferred genre of music?
Easy Listening 
6)If a genie came to you and said “Your wish is my command!” what would you wish?
I wanna travel to live in every part of the world.
7)Where would you like to go on your dream vacation?
Buddish monastery- Taung Kalat.  It’s in Burma. One of the most breathtaking sites in Burma.
8)What was/is your favorite subject in school?
Language
9)What are you reading right now?
The great zoo of China by Matthew Reilly
10)What’s the thought you have most often when going to bed at night?
Just sleep. I don’t think much
.
11)What is your favorite hobby? (If you don’t have one, what would you like to develop as a hobby?
Traveling & cooking

So, now is my turn to nominate. And the nominees for the Liebster Award 2015 goes to:-
  1. Diane Brennecke Christy
  2. reemamoussa
  3. MindandLifeMatters
  4. H.Andalib
  5. Ashley Kagaoan
Here’s are the questions for my nominees:-
  1. How many times you changed your ambition?
  2. How many times you have entered a bookshop and ended up buying a book not in your list?
  3. Do you like your name?
  4. What your blog tagline?
  5. What inspired you to blog?
  6. What makes you different?
  7. What you like the most about your recent post?
  8. What’s your latest madness?
  9. What do you hope to accomplish with your blog?
  10. Where’s your favourite spot in your house?
  11. After a long tiring day at work you enter your home; What do you do first?
Dear Nominees, Here’s how it works:
Make a post thanking and linking the person who nominated you.
Include the Liebster Award sticker in the post too.
Nominate 5 -10 other bloggers who you feel are worthy of this award. Let them know they have been nominated by commenting on one of their posts. You can also nominate the person who nominated you.
Ensure all of these bloggers have less than 200 followers.
Answer the eleven questions asked to you by the person who nominated you, and make eleven questions of your own for your nominees or you may use the same questions.
Lastly, COPY these rules in your post.

Cabbage Thoran Kerala Style

In the footsteps of Vasco Da Gama / A short stint with Calicut

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As our flight to Kozhikode was scheduled to reach at 22.45 so we planned a night stay at Kozhikode. I decided to make the most of this opportunity. So the highlights of my list were- To taste Calicut Biryani & to visit Kappad Beach, the place associated with landing of Vasco Da Gama in India.
Calicut also known as Kozhikode is the city on Malabar coast of Northern Kerala. From historical times it is known as “The City of Spices”.  Till day it lives up to its name by being one of the biggest trade post for all types of spices. Due to this it had been a cultural melting pot for various cultures such as Arab, French, Dutch and British etc in the past. Calicut had been mentioned in their travelogues by greatest travellers such as Ibn Battuta, Abdur Razzak.
               Our flight landed on time at Kozhikode airport. After booking a prepaid taxi through Calicut Taxi counter, our Journey to Calicut started. Though it was already past 11, tonight’s dinner was the only opportunity to taste the Calicut Biryani. So I started making enquiries with Siddique, our cab driver. The problem of language barrier between us was sorted out by mobile application of Tripadvisor. After making some research we shortlisted Paragon Restaurant to try Calicut Biryani. I made a phone call to them & confirmed that they were open till late night.
               I had read somewhere that in Kerala as you travel from South to North, the people become more & more polite, cooperative. With due respect to all my Mallu friends from South, I must say that the people from North are extra helpful & polite in nature. Siddique took extra efforts for us to reach Paragon Restaurant but to our bad luck the biryani is served up to only 9 pm. So we took a parcel of Malabar pepper Chicken curry, Malabar Parothas, Rice & left for Hotel Marina Residency. The surprise came when instead of taking extra money from us, Siddique started repeatedly saying sorry for taking extra time to reach Paragon. So after having a sumptuous meal of Malabar food, we hit the bed.
 The skyline of Kozhikode
The skyline of Kozhikode
Arabian Sea on the horizon
Arabian Sea on the horizon
          In the morning we could see dark clouds above the shoreline of Kozhikode aka Calicut. As we finished our healthy Kerala breakfast & checked out, hotel staff informed us that one of us has forgotten wrist watch in the room. The series of surprises continued with our cab driver Mr. Shaiju (+917025981049) from Planet Green Plantation Resorts, Wayanad. As we told him that we want to see Mananchira square & Kappad Beach, he was very enthusiastic. Shaiju accompanied us during whole trip like an old friend cum guide cum photographer.
Historical Mananchira Lake
Historical Mananchira Lake
               So we first hit Mananchira Square & lake. Mananchira Lake is a historical place with a big ground which has been partly converted into a landscaped garden. This lake is named after the erstwhile King of Kozhikode, Manadevan Samoothiri. This lake still supplies most of the drinking water to city. We took few photos of the entrance, lake & old Comtrust building.
Mananchira Square
Mananchira Square
Closed down Comtrust building
Closed down Comtrust building
               Our next stop was Kappad Beach located at approximately 15 kilometres from Calicut Town. Every Indian has read about this place in history textbooks as it is associated with the landing of Portuguese explorer Vasco Da Gama in India. I still remember the chapter about King Zamorin & his visit with Vasco Da Gama. Kappad Beach is significant in the history because Vasco Da Gama landed here in 1498 & established a permanent sea route to India from Europe. This expedited the spice trade from Calicut to all over the world.
7.Entering Kappad Beach
Entering Kappad Beach
               Our journey from Calicut to Kappad was very scenic with few creeks & lots of coconut plantation around. We could see a well constructed promenade along the stretch of beach. When we reached the Kappad Beach we were the only tourists there apart from a couple sitting on a big rock.
Couple on the rocks
Couple on the rocks
Mubarak taking the inspiration from the couple
Mubarak taking the inspiration from the couple
Few local fishermen were trying their luck with the age-old method of throwing the nets.
17. Traditional fishing
Traditional fishing
Fishermen doing their work
Fishermen doing their work
I thought for a while, when Vasco Da Gama had arrived this place 400 years back if he would have come across a similar scene. The only signs of modernisation were Kappad Beach Resort & few Thattukada style stalls selling everything from cold drinks to gooseberry in jars.
 Life at Kappad
Life at Kappad
Kappad Beach Resort
Kappad Beach Resort
Rocks projecting into the sea
Rocks projecting into the sea
19. Something for Instagram
Pickled fruits
The beach itself was very clean & beautiful with lots of seashells in the yellow sand. The life at Kappad or Kappakadavu   was going on with very slow pace. We picked few sea shells & clicked few photos on the beach. Then we moved towards the stall & enquired about the Vasco Da Gama memorial throne while having tea.
Sea shells
Sea shells
Hemant taking the position
Hemant taking the position
Selfie at Kappad
Selfie at Kappad
After asking for direction few more times we reached the location. This humble throne was nothing as compared to my expectation. We took few photos of this humble landmark near a compound wall & left for our journey onwards to Wayanad. I noted in my mind to come back to Malabar Coastline again for Kannur-Bekal-Kozhikode triangle.
Vasco-Da-Gama landed here Kappkadavu landed here 1498
Vasco-Da-Gama landed here Kappkadavu landed here 1498
The humble memorial about Vasco Da Gama's landing
The humble memorial about Vasco Da Gama’s landing


Romancing Wayanad-I

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Getting drunk on the fresh air

Getting drunk on the fresh air

​​Approaching Lakkidi View Point

​​Approaching Lakkidi View Point​​

The ghat section

The ghat section​​

Beauty of western ghats

Beauty of western ghats

We moved towards Wayanad from Kappad Beach looking at Kerala countryside. Within half an hour we could see the Western Ghat ranges engulfed in clouds & fog. Shaiju suggested that we should take an alternate route to cross the ghat section as we will reach directly to the 4th hairpin bend of the ghat section but I reminded him that I don’t want to skip Lakkidi view point. As we proceeded via this shorter alternative route we came across a waterfall. I insisted for a photo stop but I didn’t know that we will be chasing many such stunning waterfalls in our Wayanad trip.​​ ​​

Hemant taking the position

Hemant taking the position

​​ I couldnt resist a pic too

​​ I couldnt resist a pic too​​

Thamarassery Ghat Section view

Thamarassery Ghat Section view​​

Lush green vegetation

Lush green vegetation​​

An old British Era milestone

An old British Era milestone

 Wayanad ghat road is one of the best as per Indian standards. My much awaited Lakkidi View Point was finally unwrapping its beauty right in front of my naked eyes. I was truly dumbfounded to see these spectacular vistas of the valley & well marked hairpin bends of the Thamarassery Ghat Section. I could see lush green vegetation in floating clouds. Lakkidi View Point gave an idea what Wayanad will offer to my wanderlust soul.

As we had only two days in Wayanad, we decided to go directly to Edakkal Caves. The surprises continued as no guidebook have mentioned that Wayanad has beautiful lush green tea plantations as scenic as Munnar or Ooty.

​​ We had a quick lunch in a highway side restaurant & reached Edakkal caves. The trek to Edakkal Caves was hard beyond our expectation with many winding paths and series of staircases. When we reached at the top the reward was super fascinating. I could see the innumerable shades of green. The pregnant clouds, the gray white & sunless sky, distant harsh mountains & the vast green meadows made my heart grow wild with nature.​​

Climbing to Edakkal Caves

Climbing to Edakkal Caves​​

Mubarak on the Edakkal Trek

Mubarak on the Edakkal Trek​​

View from the top at Edakkal Caves

View from the top at Edakkal Caves​​

Edakkal Caves

Edakkal Caves

 The structure of these caves reminded me of my visit to Batu Caves, Malaysia. The Edakkal Caves are home to Stone Age writings & petroglyphs dating back to at least 6000 BC. It means that some of them are at least 8000 years old.​​

Stone age carvings

Stone age carvings

 This area was once situated on an ancient trade route & was inhibited even in Neolithic prehistoric age. The Stone Age carvings are very distinct & clear even today. The information board stated that such carvings are very rare & Edakkal Caves are the only example in Southern part of India.

Stone age carvings inside the caves

Stone age carvings inside the caves​​

Another view from top with the Fantom Rock ...

Another view from top with the Phantom Rock …

Getting down from the caves

Getting down from the caves

 I felt that all the efforts & hard work to climb up this place were paid off handsomely. Flabbergasted by these carvings I even wondered if it should be added to the World Heritage Site list.

          While returning back we took a diversion to Sunrise Valley on Shaiju’s suggestion.

On way to Sunrise Valley

On way to Sunrise Valley

​​ On the way we saw a notice posted by Forest Department saying that the valley is closed for tourists. We decided to take a chance & reached near the valley. To our bad luck the forest officials didn’t allow us to go to the exact view point but Shaiju somehow took us to a spot near the valley through tall grasses & woods.​​

Shaiju leading us in woods

Shaiju leading us in woods​​

The elusive Sunrise Valley

The elusive Sunrise Valley

We had no choice but to be contented with only a few glimpses of the lush green valley with multiple waterfalls. Surprisingly I got a “Welcome to Vodafone Tamilnadu” message on my mobile phone. Shaiju informed that the valley is very close to Nilgiri District of Tamilnadu.

Our next stop was Kanthanpara Waterfalls. En route I couldn’t resist few photos in beautiful tea plantations. I was gifted with few love bites from the friendly leeches.​​​​

Tea Plantations of Wayanad

Tea Plantations of Wayanad​​

Tea Plantations of Wayanad

Tea Plantations of Wayanad

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No guidebook mentioned the beautiful tea plantation

No guidebook mentioned the beautiful tea plantation​​

No guidebook mentioned the beautiful tea plantation

No guidebook mentioned the beautiful tea plantation

By the time we reached at the beautiful Kanthanpara falls, it was already closing time for the visitors.

On way to Kanthanpara Waterfalls

On way to Kanthanpara Waterfalls​​

Kanthanpara Waterfalls

Kanthanpara Waterfalls​​

Milky Kanthanpara Waterfalls

Milky Kanthanpara Waterfalls​​

Streams near Kanthanpara

Streams near Kanthanpara

We took many photos of the waterfall & drenched our tired legs into the cold water of the stream above the waterfall. It was truly therapeutic.   On our way to the Planet Green Plantation Resort we could see the elusive Chembra Peak playing hide & seek with us. Shaiju treated us with a Thattukada style tea at a village called Chundale.

​​

Thattukada style tea

Thattukada style tea​​

A vegetable shop in Chundale

A vegetable shop in Chundale

 We were warmly greeted by the staff of the Planet Green Resort. Our adrenaline-filled day came to a lovely closure with Malabar Chicken curry over a dinner table chatting about the history & culture of Wayanad with well-versed Mr. Radhakrishnan from Planet Green.​​

Malabar Chicken Curry

Malabar Chicken Curry

Before hitting the bed I couldn’t resist a walk over to the balcony & looked in the direction of mysterious Chembra Peak in dark……….​


Click to view slideshow.

Romancing Wayanad- II

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I woke up to the sound of chirping of birds. When I glanced in the direction of our French windows, all glass panes were foggy.

IMG-20150818-WA0018 (1)I walked over to the balcony to get a glimpse of The Chembra Peak. I sat on a chair watching the mystique Chembra Peak engulfed in the morning fog.

Mystique Chambra Peak engulfed in morning fog.

Mystique Chambra Peak engulfed in the morning fog.

This view comes with background music of birds chirping.

This view comes with background music of birds chirping.

The mystery of Chembra Peak Unfolds.

The mystery of Chembra Peak Unfolds.

The view of the lush green tea, coffee estates & dense forest came with a cool breeze & background music played by hundreds of aviator friends. Wayanad was greeting, “Good Morning” in its own style. Enchanted by this little piece of heaven I sat there for few more minutes.

Healthy Kerala breakfast of Puttu, Appam & Avial.

Healthy Kerala breakfast of Puttu, Appam & Avial.

    A healthy, sumptuous breakfast of puttu, appam and avial was waiting for us at Planet Green’s restaurant. By the time, we finished our breakfast & started enjoying Planet Green’s in-house brewed coffee, the mystery of Chembra Peak started unfolding.

It was less what my eyes could see and more what soul could feel.

It was less what my eyes could see and more what soul could feel.

Tasting this cup of rich flavoured Wayanad coffee & looking at the tea, coffee estates in the valley was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. It was less what my eyes could see & more what soul could feel.

Breathtakingly beautiful tea plantation near Chundale.

Breathtakingly beautiful tea plantation near Chundale.

    The first agenda of the day was to visit few more tea estates & Regional Coffee Research Station at Chundale. The tea plantation in this area was breathtakingly beautiful.

Lush green tea plantation.

Lush green tea plantation.

Western Ghat ranges in background.

Western Ghat ranges in the background.

We parked our car near a tea estate’s bungalow & started walking. I saw miles of lush green tea plantations with arrays of the Western Ghats in the background.The early morning rays & fresh air acted like alchemist for this panorama of houses, winding roads in the green hills of tea estates. I wished I could lie beneath a tree and read a book.

I wish I could lie beneath this tree, reading book.

I wished I could lie beneath this tree, reading book.

Life is beautiful.

Life is beautiful.

Winding roads in the tea estates.

Winding roads in the tea estates.

Wayanad tea, anyone?

Wayanad tea, anyone?

The early morning rays & fresh air in immersed the beauty.

The early morning rays & fresh air magnified the beauty.

We kept on clicking our shutterbugs till we reached back to Regional Coffee Research Station.

At Regional Coffee Research Station.

At Regional Coffee Research Station.

Coffee beans.

Coffee beans.

A walk amidst the coffee plantation.

A walk amidst the coffee plantation.

Shaiju introduced to us various varieties of Coffee plants like Arabica and Robusta. The walk was very informative & Shaiju promised us to show the method of home brewing of coffee in Wayanad. 

Our next pit stop was a Toddy Shop on the way to Suchipara Waterfalls. 

At a Kallu (Toddy) shop.

At a Kallu (Toddy) shop.

Our glasses of Toddy.

Our glasses of Toddy.

Toddy or Kallu is a mildly alcoholic beverage made from the sap of Palm trees. Toddy shop & its food is an integral part of Kerala culture. Toddy shop is the place for the Keralite to hang out with friends. The main delicacies on offer are tapioca, ducks, pork and fish curries. We finished 2 bottles of Toddy in this Kallu Shop. All booze lovers will be sad to know that Kerala government has recently imposed many restrictions on selling alcohol in Kerala but trying this exotic drink can be a good experience to boast about.

The path to Suchipara was well paved with steps going down deep in the valley. We could hear the roaring of mighty Suchipara Falls from a distance.

Road to Suchipara waterfalls.

Road to Suchipara waterfalls.

More tea.

.Tea, Wayanad tea anyone?

Walking towards Suchipara waterfalls.

Walking towards Suchipara waterfalls.

Descending steps of Suchipara falls.

Descending steps of Suchipara falls.

When we reached the last stretch of descending steps through dense foliage, the gushing stream of waterfall came into sight. The mighty Suchiapara was pouring out an enormous amount of water from the cliff.

The mighty Suchipara.

The mighty Suchipara.

Getting wet with showers.

Getting wet with showers.

The pool of Suchipara falls.

The pool of Suchipara falls.

It is one of the safest waterfalls to bath or swim because unlike other falls this one comes with a shallow pool.  Many families were enjoying the bath in this shallow pool. Though we didn’t venture into the water we were not spared by the water coming with the wind. We were completely wet by the time we left the waterfall area. There is one viewpoint on the path to the waterfall from where you can see the dense forest around.    

Dense forest around the valley.

The Dense forest around the valley.

After taking lemonade near the exit point, we got back in the car & moved towards Pookode Lake. This beautiful, natural freshwater lake near Vythiri is very scenic nestled among hills & forest.

Scenic Pookode nestled among hills & forest.

Scenic Pookode nestled among hills & forest.

Pookode Lake popular spot for families.

Pookode lake, a popular spot for the families

It is a complete family hangout spot with boating facility, Children Park, souvenir shops etc. This lake is famous for the pink & blue coloured flowers in it. I clicked many pictures of this carpet of pink flowers in the lake.

Love is in the air; hope it gets to the heart too ;-)

Love is in the air.

Beautiful Pookode Lake.

Beautiful Pookode Lake.

By now we were very hungry & decided to take lunch somewhere en route to Banasura Sagar Dam.

We had lunch at Coffee Grove restaurant. This small place is well known for very tastefully done interior & excellent food.

Coffee Grove Restaurant

Coffee Grove Restaurant

We decided to go vegetarian today as almost a complete Kerala Sadya was available in the menu. The best part was that we were also served ‘chukkuvellam’ traditional Kerala medicinal pink water.

Kerala Sadya with medicinal pink water.

Kerala Sadya with medicinal pink water.

The highlight of the trip was yet to come in the form of Banasura Sagar Dam. It is the biggest earthen dam in India on the backdrop of beautiful Banasura peak.

The first glimpse of Banasura Sagar Dam.

The first glimpse of Banasura Sagar Dam.

We were able to see the backwater of the dam from many miles before the actual dam. This area has become very popular with trekkers going to Banasura Hills.

Backwater of Banasura Sagar Dam.

Backwater of Banasura Sagar Dam.

The actual reservoir is very serene with alpine vistas around. There are many half-submerged islands in this lake.We had a thrilling speed boat ride of 30 minutes in the dam.

Getting ready for the thrill.

Getting ready for the thrill.

Thrilling speed boat ride of 30 minutes

Thrilling speed boat ride of 30 minutes

Thrilling speed boat ride of 30 minutes

Thrilling speed boat ride of 30 minutes

Thrilling speed boat ride of 30 minutes

Thrilling speed boat ride of 30 minutes

Chilling & thrilling.

Chilling & thrilling.

Serene, Sublime reservoir of Banasura Sagar.

Serene, Sublime reservoir of Banasura Sagar.

Banasura Sagar Hills.

Banasura Sagar Hills.

There are many semi-submerged islands in the lake.

There are many half submerged islands in the lake.

God’s own painting.

God’s own painting.

Hide & Seek of clouds & rays.

Hide & Seek of clouds & rays.

Every frame in this area is like a painting by almighty God. The dark clouds & sunrays were playing hide & seek with Banasura Hill range.

We decided to take benefit of the remaining sunlight by visiting Little Meenmutty Waterfalls before heading to Kalpetta Town. As promised earlier Shaiju showed us the coffee processing in Kalpetta.

Hemant on his way to Little Meenmutty.

Hemant on his way to Little Meenmutty.

Little Meenmutty.

Little Meenmutty.

 

3 Idiots.

3 Idiots.

Beauty of monsoons in Kerala.

The beauty of monsoons in Kerala.

Getting wet in the rain.

Getting wet in the rain.

Beauty of monsoons in Kerala.

The beauty of monsoons in Kerala.

At Planet Green, we summarised the places we couldn’t go in this trip. So the foundation of one more Wayanad trip was already laid. As we had to leave early to Kozhikode Airport for our flight back home so we decided to sleep early. By the way, who needs alcohol when you are already high on greenery & fresh air of God’s own country?


MY OFFBEAT GOA

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Goa is one of the most favourite beach destinations across the world. With pristine beaches, unique Portuguese influenced culture and exotic food -Goa is like a big refrigerator & everybody comes here to chill. For most of the Indian tourists, Goa means a North Goa trip of Baga- Calangute- Candolim beaches, a short stint with churches of  Old Goa & a Panji city tour. I have been to Goa again & again. As the number of my trips increased, I started exploring the hidden Goa which is very rarely visited by the tourists. There are many hidden gems & many fascinating “Things to do” in this little state. So here is my off beat Goa guide.

1. Walk in the Fontainhas

A walk in the Fontainhas
A walk in the Fontainhas
The bright coloured old houses with narrow but neat lanes
The bright coloured old houses with narrow but neat lanes.

During my recent visit to Goa, I ticked off one of the long pending point from my travel bucket list. I walked in the Latin Old Quarter known as The Fontainhas in Panji. This walk transported me into the Portuguese era. I enjoyed the walk for its old & finest architecture. The bright coloured old houses with narrow but neat lanes make it a must do experience for everyone visiting Goa.

2. Tiracol Fort & Querim beach

Tiracol fort offers beautiful vistas of Querim beach

Tiracol fort offers beautiful vistas of Querim beach

Tiracol fort houses century old church of San Anton

The fort houses century old church of San Anton

Tiracol Fort has been converted into Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel

It has been converted into Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel

Tiracol Fort has got Portuguese influence on its architecture

Tiracol Fort has got Portuguese influence on its architecture

Tiracol Fort also known as Terekhol Fort in Marathi & Konkani is a fort on the northernmost tip of Goa. It can be reached by a ferry from Querim beach or by entering into Maharashtra border by crossing a bridge on Terekhol River. The fort offers beautiful vistas of Arabian Sea, Querim beach & Terekhol River. It has got Portuguese influence on its architecture. It also houses century old church of San Anton or Saint Antony. Though it has been converted into Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel, it is still open for tourists.

3. Salaulim Dam

Salaulim Dam is one of the best kept secrets of Goa

Salaulim Dam is one of the best kept secrets of Goa

Watching the overflow on GÇÿduckbill spillwayGÇÖ is a real stress buster

Watching the overflow on duckbill spillway is a real stress buster

Salaulim Dam near Sanguem town is one of the best kept secrets of Goa. It is built in the Zuari Basin on Salaulim River. You can see the serene reservoir dam with few submerged islands & dense forest perched hills on the backdrop. There are no touristy attractions like boating here but you can spend hours just looking at the water. Watching the overflow on ‘duckbill spillway’ is a real stress buster. You can also visit a centuries old temple near the dam.

4. King’s Beer, Bebinca & Port Wine

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Goa’s Port wine, King’s Beer, Bebinca and Feni

Goa is known for its exotic liquor Feni. A Feni bottle is very popular as a souvenir among the tourists but there is Goa beyond Feni. King’s Beer is for Goa what Guinness is for Ireland. King’s Beer is very popular among the Goans for it’s smoky, malt aroma & it will cost only few bucks to your pocket. Also don’t forget to taste the Bebinca which is rightly called as the queen of Goan sweets. It is a traditional 16 layered Goan pudding. The sweet taste of Goa’s Port wine will also linger in your memory for a long time.

5. Church of Saint Augustine Ruins

Church of Saint Augustine Ruins

Church of Saint Augustine Ruins

St. Augustine Tower is one of the most spectacular monuments in Goa

St. Augustine Tower is one of the most spectacular monuments in Goa

Many people who visit The Basilica in Old Goa are unaware of this hidden gem just across the corner. St. Augustine Tower is one of the most spectacular monuments in Goa. One of the songs from the movie ‘Singham’ was shot in these ruins.  The tower & church were built in 1602 by the Augustine followers. The church was abandoned in 1835. The St. Augustine Tower is the remaining part of a building which once was one of the grandest in Goa.

6. Take a ferry ride

When in Goa, do as the Goans do

When in Goa, do as the Goans do

Every tourist takes the touristy Mandovi River Cruise with folk dances & other  attractions. When in Goa, do as the Goans do. Ferry is the local mode of transport to cross the rivers & creeks. This ferry is totally free for the people & bikes. Four wheeler owners have to pay Rs. 10-15.

7. Goa’s countryside

Goan countryside will surprise you in many ways

Goan countryside will surprise you in many ways

The real Susegad Goa

The real Susegad Goa

Goa is not all about the sun & sand. Wandering aimlessly in Goan countryside will surprise you in many ways. Lush green paddy fields, coconut trees, villages, old traditional houses, people doing their daily chores & much more. This is the real Susegad Goa. Recently released Hindi movies like Finding Fanny & Drishyam have beautifully portrayed this quaint side of Goa.

8. Beaches of South Goa

South Goa has some of the most beautiful beaches of India

South Goa has some of the most beautiful beaches of India

 Sit in a humble shack on Agonda beach drinking KingGÇÖs beer with Pork Vindaloo.

Sit in a humble shack on Agonda beach drinking King’s beer with Pork Vindaloo.

Play football on Palolem

Play football on Palolem

Take an evening walk on beach

Take an evening walk on beach

Enjoy the Sun _ sand minus the crowd

Enjoy the Sun & sand minus the crowd

Just relax sitting in sand

Just relax sitting in sand

Doing yoga on beach

Doing yoga on beach

The golden sunset on Arabian Sea

The golden sunset on the Arabian Sea

Run away from the maddening crowd of Baga, Calangute, Candolim & head towards the South. South Goa has some of the most beautiful beaches of India. Agonda, Palolem & Benaulim are few of them. You can spend days at these beaches walking, swimming, playing football and doing yoga. Sit in sand enjoying the golden sunset on Arabian Sea or sit in a humble shack drinking King’s beer with Pork Vindaloo.

9. Cabo De Rama Fort

Cabo De Rama fort is housing a beautiful Saint Antony church which is still used by the local devotees

Cabo De Rama fort is housing a beautiful Saint Antony church which is still used by the local devotees

Cabo De Rama is having a mystique aura around it.

Cabo De Rama is having a mystique aura around it.

 Breathtaking views of the cliffs _ Arabian Sea from Cabo De Rama

Breathtaking views of the cliffs and the Arabian Sea from Cabo De Rama

This place will awaken the photographer in you

This place will awaken the photographer in you

 This place will also awaken the model in you

This place will also awaken the model in you

Below these cliffs lies Cabo De Rama beach

Below these cliffs lies Cabo De Rama beach

Taking a break from the Aguad Fort & Chapora Fort, do a Fort Run with Cabo De Rama Fort. Cabo De Rama in Canacona is having a mystique aura around it. It is housing a beautiful Saint Antony church which is still used by the local devotees. The vantage points of the fort offer breathtaking views of the cliffs & Arabian Sea. You can also visit the untouched Cabo De Rama Beach. This place will awaken the photographer in you.

10. See the wild side of Goa

The wild side of Goa

The wild side of Goa

 Goa has many wild life sanctuaries

Goa has many wild life sanctuaries

Many people don’t know that there is abundant wild life in Goa. Goa has many wild life sanctuaries like Bondla, Bhagwan Mahaveer, Mhadei, Mollem, Cotigao, Netravali etc. Most of them are situated on the eastern part of Goa & are a part of Western Ghats which are declared as the high biodiversity area with UNESCO World Heritage Site Status. These wildlife sanctuaries are very rich in flora & fauna. These are home to tigers, leopards, gaur, sambar, pythons, cobra, spotted deers & many species of birds. There are many waterfalls in these protected areas & help of forest department can be taken to explore these treasures of Goa.

11. Enjoy the monsoon of Goa

 Wet Goa is a feast to eyes

Wet Goa is a feast to eyes

Fifty shades of grey in Goan monsoon

Fifty shades of grey in Goan monsoon

During the high season hordes of tourists come from all over the world to Goa but Goa has its own charm during the monsoon.  Wet Goa is a feast to eyes with overflowing Mandovi , Zuari rivers & lush green hills around. The beaches are less populous & you can be at peace at any of the attractions. All the star hotels offer very lucrative schemes during this season & air fares are very cheap too. You can see the greenery everywhere & Susegad Goa becomes more Susegad during this season.


Filed under: Travellers' Tips Tagged: #Baga, #beachofsouthgoa, #bebinca, #Calangute, #candolim, #Fontainhas, #goa, #kingbeer, #MandoviRiverCruise, #offbeatgoa, #portwine, #querimbeach, #SaintAugustineRuins, #salaulimdam, #SusegadGoa, #TheBasilica, #tiracol, #tiracolfort

Ahmedabad Diaries- Sabarmati Ashram

Life along the Ghats of Maheshwar

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Watch the day to day lives of the locals along the sacred Narmada River, do Yoga on the Ghats, get enchanted by the evening Narmada Aarti or go on a temple run to satisfy the spiritual part of you.

One can spend days along the Ghats of Maheshwar doing this. Probably, nothing has changed in centuries here. The people are very simple & their whole life revolves around Narmada Maiya. Narmada or more commonly called as Rhewa by the locals has been a mute witness to their lives for generations.

Rajmata

Rajmata

Maheshwar is the legacy of Queen Ahilya Devi Holkar of Holkar Royal family. It was the first capital of Holkar royal family of Malwa. Maheshwar is believed to be an ancient town & it was inhabited even in 4th century. The Maratha Queen Ahilya Devi Holkar gave Maheshwar its bygone glory in 18th century. Ahilya Devi constructed many beautiful temples, ghats along the Narmada River.

Entrance to the Fort

Entrance to the Fort

The first thing I noticed about Maheshwar was the large numbers of holy cows wandering in the narrow streets of the town. It blends well with the holy character of the place. The centre of attraction of the town is the Ahilya Fort towering high above the town on a hill along the river. The entrance to the Fort is marked by a big, old door.

Laboos Cafe

Laboos Cafe

There are a few good eateries inside the palace like the Laboos Cafe which gives you an experience of having your breakfast in the medieval settings. The current Holkars have continued the legacy of Ahilya Devi’s social work in many forms. You can see the Devi Ahilya School on the left as you enter the royal property inside the fort.

Statue of Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar

Statue of Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar

You will be welcomed by a recently erected grand statue of the queen herself. Though, Holkars are famous in history for their richness in the form of diamonds, jewellery & palaces, Ahilya Devi is known for her good governance & social work in form of temples, dharamshalas and wells all over India.

The Humble Wada

The Humble Wada

The humble Wada of Ahilyabai where she used to stay is an example of simplicity of the legendary queen. Inside the Wada, you can see the personal belongings of Ahilyabai like her Palkhi, Gadi(Throne), temple, and swords. The pictures of the brave Holkar clan are displayed inside the Wada. As Ahilyabai was very religious by nature, you can see many Shivlingas there.

Inside the Wada

Inside the Wada

Priests making Shivlingas

Priests making Shivlingas

You can see the royal priests making 15000 Shivlingas in clay inside the compound. This is a century old tradition of Ahilya Fort. The Gold Swing is another attraction for the devotees. This little swing is made of pure gold for infant Lord Krishna.

The fort itself offers panoramic view of the vast Narmada River, temples & Ghats of Maheshwar.

View of the Ghats from the Ahilya Fort

View of the Ghats from the Ahilya Fort


The panoramic view of the Ghats

The panoramic view of the Ghats


View of Naramada from Ahilya Fort

View of Naramada from Ahilya Fort

Before heading down from the Fort, I decided to visit the Rhewa Society known for the Maheshwari Sarees.

Inside the Wada

Maheshwari Sarees

The Maheshwari sarees are famous all over the world for the unique five stripped pallus & reversible border. The pattern is believed to be designed by Queen Ahilya Devi Holkar herself. These fabrics, with a royal touch are hand woven from silk & cotton. Rehwa Society is a non-profit organisation started by Maharaj Kumar Richard Shivajirao Holkar. Rhewa is one of the names of the sacred river Narmada. The profit from this organisation goes to a school, housing schemes & health services of the weaver families. Rehwa Society is trying to revive the century old hand weaving tradition of Maheshwar.

As you get down the slopes of the Fort towards the Ghats, the sight of the beautiful temples built with stones will amaze you.

Temple Doors

Temple Doors


Ahilyeshwar Temple

Ahilyeshwar Temple

Vithoji Chhatri _ Ahilyeshwar Temple

Vithoji Chhatri _ Ahilyeshwar Temple

Vithoji Cenotaph

Vithoji Cenotaph

The work of carvings & sculptures done on stones are fine example of the Maratha architecture. Ahilyeshwar Temple & Vithoji’s Cenotaph are the most prominent among them. One can spend hours watching the minute details of these sculptures.

Sculptures on temple walls

Sculptures on temple walls

 Sculptures on temple

Sculptures on temple


Temple premises

Temple premises


Deepmal

Deepmal


Carvings on the wall

Carvings on the walls.

The carvings on the temple wall

The carvings on the temple wall


The temple steps from the Ghats

The temple steps from the Ghats


24. Fine Maratha architecture

Fine Maratha architecture


The grand entrance from river isde

The grand entrance from river side


Few of many Shivlingas _ Nandis on Ghats

Few of many Shivlingas _ Nandis on Ghats

The grandness of Maheshwar can be seen once you get to the sacred Narmada River. The Ghats, temple & the towering Fort take you to another era.

You can watch people doing their daily chores. People washing clothes, priests performing pooja, devotees taking holy dip in sacred river & the boatmen taking the locals to the other side of the bank.

Glimpses of Ghat life

Glimpses of Ghat life

The boat ride will offer you the panoramic view of Maheshwar.

 Vistas from boat ride

Vistas from boat ride

Take a mini trip to Baneshwar Temple constructed on a tiny piece of land amidst the Narmada or go to Sahastradhara where the river flows in forms of thousands of springs on the rocks.

Baneshwar Temple

Baneshwar Temple


Sahastradhara

Sahastradhara

In Hindu mythology, Baneshwar Temple is said to be on the axis of earth & Rajmata Ahilya Devi use to visit this place on a daily basis for pooja.

            If you feel hungry get down at the MPTDC’s Narmada Retreat Resort by the Narmada River and try their excellent food. Narmada Retreat is also an excellent option for stay with many air conditioned rooms, deluxe suits & Maharaja Tents by the river.

MPTDC's Narmada Retreat

MPTDC’s Narmada Retreat

The other option is majestic Ahilya Fort itself. A part of the palace has been converted into a boutique hotel by Richard Holkar. Staying in this palace with royal hospitality can be a memorable experience.

As the day closes, get to Ghats again to watch the panoramic sunset on River Narmada. Watch the locals taking a stroll along the Ghats or doing Yoga & womenfolk offering the ‘Diyas’ to Mother Narmada. Elders take their children and feed the fishes which in return entertain the children by making splashes in the water. The milkmen return to their villages by boat. This is a little place & almost all the people know each other.

The Ahilya Fort at night

The Ahilya Fort at night


The evening Narmada Aarti

The evening Narmada Aarti

At around 7.30 the priest starts the preparations for the evening Naramada Aarti & the people will start gathering near Narmada Temple. The Narmada Aarti will take you on a spiritual journey. The impressions of this quaint place called Maheshwar will linger in your memories forever.


Filed under: My Escapades Tagged: #ahilyadeviholkar, #ahilyafort, #desivagabond, #holkar, #india, #maheshwar, #maratha, #narmadariver, #rhewa, #southasia, #travel

Exotic alcoholic drinks of South Asia

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Legendary author Ernest Hemingway had once said, “I drink to make other people more interesting”.  Most of my friends who consume alcohol will agree with that. The true essence of any foreign land can be enjoyed through its culture, traditions, food & drinks. If enjoyed carefully this thing can really make your travels more interesting. South Asia has historically been a cultural melting pot of people of different ethnicities from many distant lands & cultures. This has made the foods & drinks of this sub-continent diverse in its truest sense. So, here is your guide for drinking around South Asia with some of the most exotic alcoholic drinks of the subcontinent.

1. Arrack of Sri Lanka

Arrack of Sri lanka can be rightly called as the grandfather of all the alcoholic drinks.

Arrack of Sri lanka can be rightly called as the grandfather of all the alcoholic drinks.

This drink, from the beautiful island country of Sri Lanka can be rightly called as the grandfather of all the alcoholic drinks.  It’s a coconut based liquor. Even Marco Polo has mentioned this wonderful spirit in his travelogue. With its smoky flavour & golden colour, Arrack is the most popular local drink of Sri Lanka. It is made from the sap of unopened flowers of coconut palm trees. Each morning you can see thousands of workers climbing the palm trees in Sri Lanka. Some popular Arrack brands are the Rockland, Mendis & DCSL.  The taste of the Arrack resembles dark rum. It goes well with lemon, soda and tonic water. So, on your next trip to Sri Lanka don’t forget to buy a bottle of Arrack as a souvenir for your best friends like me. This bottle of Rockland Old Arrack was gifted to me by a friend of mine.

2. Toddy from Kerala

Our glasses of Toddy in Wayanad

Our glasses of Toddy in Wayanad

Toddy or Kallu is a mildly alcoholic beverage made from the sap of Palm trees. Toddy shop & its food is an integral part of Kerala’s culture. Toddy shop is the place to hang out with your friends.

Kitchen Inside a Kallu Shop (Toddy Shop)

Kitchen Inside a Kallu Shop (Toddy Shop)

The main delicacies on offer are tapioca, ducks, pork and fish curries. To live like a local one must enjoy a glass of Toddy with spicy food.  Booze lovers will be sad to know that as per new regulations by the state government, there are many restrictions on selling of alcohol in Kerala but trying this exotic drink can be a good experience to boast about.  I have tried it in every Kerala trip & in various parts of Kerala. Here you can see me with my glass of Toddy in legendary R Block Island Toddy Shop.

With my glass of Toddy in legendary R Block Island Toddy Shop.

With my glass of Toddy in legendary R Block Island Toddy Shop.

3. Feni from Goa

A Feni bottle is very popular as a souvenir among the tourists.

A Feni bottle is very popular as a souvenir among the tourists.

Goa is known for its exotic liquor Feni. A Feni bottle is a very popular souvenir among the tourists. Feni can be made from both Coconut & Cashew. The one made from coconut is popular among the locals & they claim that it’s the best cure for common cold. There are many Feni brands available in Goa. The reputed ones are Spirit of India Feni, Big Boss and  Cazulo Premium. The taste is slightly pungent. It can be best consumed with soda & lemon. I will advise you not to call home after two drinks.

4. King’s Beer from Goa

 King Beer is for Goa what Guinness is for Ireland

King’s Beer is for Goa what Guinness is for Ireland

There is Goa beyond Feni. King’s Beer is for Goa what Guinness is for Ireland. King’s Beer is very popular among the Goans for its smoky, malt aroma & it will cost only a few bucks to your pocket. The Sun & Sand of Goa beaches can be best enjoyed with a bottle of King’s Beer & the authentic Goan food on a comfy beachside shack.

5. Wines of Nashik Valley

Nashik Valley

Nashik Valley

Sula Vineyards

Sula Vineyards

Nashik is fast emerging as the Napa Valley of India. The weather of Nashik district is cool all year around & best suited for wine yards & wineries. Almost 50% of India’s wineries are located in this single district of Maharashtra. The patriarch of Indian Wine industry, Sula Winery is located at Gangapur Dam, Nasik. Staying in their Sula Beyond hotel can be a memorable experience. There are two restaurants in their wine yard. 7.1 IMG_6712The other notable players are Zampa Grover, Chateau D’ori, Charosa Vineyards and Prathamesh Wineries. Baglouni of Prathamesh is made from the grapes of my native place Baglan & it is one of my all time favourite. Almost all of them have wine testing facilities & offer a winery tour.

6. Mahua of Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra

Mahua tree

Mahua tree

Mahua is the most popular drink of the aboriginal tribal peoples living in India called as Adivasis. It is made from the flowers of Mahua tree widely found in India. Adivasis consider Mahua tree as God & Mahua drink plays a major part in all their festivals. Few of the foreign experts have termed it as one of the best spirits of the world. I am not sure about the legal status of this drink in many states of India.

 7. Raksi of Nepal & Tibet

One Raksi, Two Raksi, Three Raksi _ Floor.

One Raksi, Two Raksi, Three Raksi _ Floor.

Raksi made from rice has been ranked as 41st most delicious drink of the world by CNN.  The taste is slightly strong like Japanese Sake. It goes inside you with a slightly burning sensation. It is widely consumed during festivals. During my Nepal trip in May 2013, we were served Raksi prior to our traditional Nepalese dinner in one of Kathmandu’s restaurants. It is generally served in a shallow clay pot. I will advise you to be careful with the consumption of Raksi because the result will be One Raksi, Two Raksi, Three Raksi & Floor.

8. Chhaang of Nepal, Bhutan, Ladakh & NE India

Chhaang or Tongba

Chhaang or Tongba

Chhaang comes in two variants of Rice & millet or barley. It can be called as a cousin of beer. It serves as the best remedy for common cold, fever, body ache in the cold climate of these Himalayan regions. The drink is widely consumed in all the households & is an important part of the local social life. Engulfing yourself in warm clothes & enjoying a warm glass of Chhaang at your local host’s home can be a wonderful experience.

Chhaang or Tongba

Chhaang or Tongba

 9. Fruits wines of Himachal Pradesh

Fruits wines of Himachal Pradesh

Fruits wines of Himachal Pradesh [Image By: Adil Arora http://www.indianwineacademy.com/item_1_561.aspx]

You can find them on the mall roads of Manali, Shimla, Dalhousie & all other tiny hill stations of the state. These wines are sweet in taste & mildly alcoholic.  They are made with variety of fruits such as apple, plum, peach, pear & berries. It can cost you anything between Rs.150 to Rs. 250 per bottle. The cold weather & the Himalayan spring waters of the Devbhumi Himachal do the wonders for these wines.

10. Whiskies of Sikkim

Whiskeys of sikkim

Whiskeys of sikkim in a Gorkha khukeri shaped bottle

Whiskeys of sikkim

Whiskeys of sikkim

There is a growing whisky industry in Sikkim. These whisky bottles come in various shapes & the most popular is a traditional gorkha khukeri shaped bottle. Many of the tourists take these bottles home as souvenirs. Some of them come in various flavours ranging from Paan, Coffee, Cherry, Ginger to what not. This set of miniature bottles & khukeri were again gifts from a friend.

11. Royal liquors of Rajasthan

chandar

chandar

jagmohan

jagmohan

kesar

kesar

mawalin

mawalin

(Image source:http://shivanshk.blogspot.my/2011/07/padharo-mhare-des.html )

Almost all the Royal families of Rajasthan have had the tradition of preparing their own alcoholic beverages. Each one of them had a secret formula for their drinks which were passed down from generation to generation. The most notable royal liquor called Kesar Kasturi is made from Kesar (saffron), spices, milk, honey and other secret ingredients. It is a legend that Roger Moore was served with Kesar Kasturi during the shooting of Octopussy in Udaipur. Recently Rajasthan Government decided to revive this age old tradition by setting up the factories for these royal drinks & opened up these royal drinks for commoners.

12. Old Monk

Not all good things of life are expensive.

Not all good things of life are expensive.

Though Old Monk is available all over the world, I am purposefully including it in this list as a tribute to one of the finest & the largest selling rum brand of the world. The history of Old Monk goes back to the year 1954. It used to come in an Old Monk shaped bottle. You can find millions of die hard, loyal Old Monk fans all over India. According to them it can cure almost all the common ailments human beings can ever have. For example if you have common cough & cold, your Ex-Army uncle will advise you to take a small quantity with lukewarm water or  an experienced friend will even advice you to take it with black coffee. The legendary drink was made famous with quotes like, “Not all good things of life are expensive.”

You can find millions of die hard, loyal Old Monk fans all over the India

You can find millions of die hard, loyal Old Monk fans all over the India

Disclaimer & Warning: After reading this post, the readers might think that the author is a drunkard with bad drinking habits which is not the case. You are also advised to drink responsibly, avoid drunken driving & follow local rules.

Bon Voyage & Cheers


Filed under: Travellers' Tips Tagged: #alcohol, #arack, #chhaang, #cuisine, #culture, #drinks, #exoticalcoholicdrinksofsouthasia, #feni, #food, #fruitswine, #kingsbeer, #mahua, #nasikvalley, #oldmonk, #people, #raksi, #royalliquorsofrajasthan, #sulawine, #toddy, #whiskiesofsikkim

Shalgam Curry ( Spicy Turnip Curry)

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Shalgam or Turnip in English is a root vegetable commonly grown in northern parts of India. It is very popular in Ladakh and Punjab. Turnip root is very high in vitamin C, Calories with almost zero cholesterol. So, you can call it a super-food. There are many recipes of Shalgam (Turnip) in different parts of India. Here is one of the simplest recipes which can be cooked in a very short span of time.

Ingredients

  • 5 Turnips, cut into cubes

  • 3 Onions finely chopped

  • 2 tomatoes finely chopped

  • ¼ tsp ginger crushed

  • ½ tsp cumin seeds

  • ½ tsp mustard seeds

  • 2 green chilies finely slit

  • 4 garlic cloves finely chopped

  • 1 ½ red chili powder

  • 1 ½ coriander powder

  • 1 ½ tsp turmeric powder

  • 3 tbsp oil

  • Salt as per taste

  • Finely chopped coriander for garnishing

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Clock-wise from the top 1 ½ coriander powder; 1 ½ tsp turmeric powder; ½ tsp mustard seeds ; ½ tsp cumin seeds; 1 ½ red chili powder and garlics in the middle.

Turnips

Turnips

Onions, tomatoes, chillies and turnips

Onions, tomatoes, chillies and turnips

Recipe/Method

  1. Heat oil in a pressure cooker over medium flame.

  2. Add the mustard seeds & cumin seeds. Let it sputter.

  3. Then add the finely chopped garlic cloves & onion. Keep sautéing till it becomes little brownish.

  4. Now add the finely slit green chilies & let it splutter.

  5. Add turmeric powder, coriander powder & red chili powder and keep stirring continuously.

  6. Then add the tomatoes & keep stirring continuously.

  7. Add the cubed turnip roots & mix well with the spices (gravy).

  8. Lastly add two glasses of hot water.

  9. Pressure cook for 2 whistles on Med-high flame.

  10. Garnish with chopped coriander before serving.

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Keep stirring continuously.

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Shalgam Curry is ready to be served.


Filed under: India In My Kitchen Tagged: #indiainmykitchen, #indiainthedesivagabondkitchen, #indianfood, #shalgamcurry, #turnip, #turnipcurry

Life along the Ghats of Maheshwar

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Maheshwar is the legacy of Queen Ahilya Devi Holkar of Holkar Royal family. It was the first capital of Holkar royal family of Malwa. Maheshwar is believed to be an ancient town & it was inhabited even in 4th century. The Maratha Queen Ahilya Devi Holkar gave Maheshwar its bygone glory in 18thcentury. Ahilya Devi constructed many beautiful temples, ghats along the Narmada River.

Source: Life along the Ghats of Maheshwar


Filed under: My Escapades

Ghosts Of Pune

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Post by @desivagabond.

Source: Ghosts Of Pune

Now, imagine yourself sitting by a bonfire in the long dark hours of night & listen to the spine chilling ghost stories I am narrating you….
My maternal grandfather was an employee of Forest Department. He spent most of his service life in the remote adivasi areas of Thane district. The native adivasi tribes of Thane district are firm believers of ghosts, evil spirits & black magic. Naturally almost all of my maternal family trust more or less in the existence of paranormal activity. Since my childhood I have heard many stories of haunted houses, woods & roads of Jawhar, Mokhada, Talasari etc. I myself don’t believe in ghosts but I still like to hear those old stories again & again in our family gatherings. But you will be surprised to know that the places I am telling here are not from the remote adivasi areas but they are from Pune, one of the biggest metro cities of India.


Filed under: My Escapades Tagged: #ghostsofpune, #halloween

Happy D’wali

Tears and a Prayer for France

Sabarimala – The Black Sea Of Faith

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